Isfahan - Half the World

Isfahan, world famous city of blue mosques, city of bridges, paradisiacal gardens and palaces, imperial residence, commercial city and cultural center. Isfahan is a fertile oasis on the shores of Zayande-Rud in the central Iranian highlands at 1575 meters above sea level.

History

550 BC
Already in the Achaemenid period under Kourosh the Great Isfahan is said to have been a residence city named Gabai.

250 BC to 650 AD
Under the Parthians and Sasanids, the city developes into an important army base, at times it is also capital and mintage place.

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Things to discover in Isfahan ...

Meidan-e Imam

This square is one of the largest and most beautiful ones in the world. The 512m-long and 163m-wide Meidan was laid out in 1602 under the reign of the Safavid ruler, Shah Abbas the Great, to emphasize the importance of Esfahan as a capital of his powerful empire.
The entire square is surrounded by arcades with shops and workshops. The ensemble of the square includes the imposing Imam Mosque at the south end, the elegant Lotfollah Mosque on the east side, the entrance to the bazaar at the north end and the Ali Qapu Palace on the west side. Since the completion of the buildings in 1616 little has changed on the square. Even the goal posts used in frequent polo games are still in place. The only modern additions are the fountains, which were added during the Pahlavi era.
A few years ago, the square has even been made free from traffic apart from the horse-drawn carriages for the visitors, thus allowing the people to walk peacefully around the square.

Ali Qapu Palace

This six-storey palace dominating one side of Imam Square was built to impress. It served as a monumental gateway to the royal palaces and gardens that were situated behind it. The veranda with its 18 beautiful wooden pillars offers a unique view over the whole square and the roofs of the Isfahan. You will be surprised to find also a water basin with a small fountain on the veranda.
The palace’s 52 rooms are connected by endless staircases and corridors. Unfortunately, little is left of the numerous splendid mural paintings inside the palace. But the palace is actually being carefully restored.
However, the real highlight of the palace is the music room on the upper floor. The stucco ceiling is stencilled with the shapes of vases and rose-water shakers to enhance the acoustics.

Big Bazaar

The big covered bazaar is one of Iran’s busiest and most fascinating bazaars. It can be entered through the big door at the main entrance from the Meidan-e Imam. From here it stretches to the Friday Mosque. Along the more than 1.5 km long main axis, a whole labyrinth of narrow lanes with shops, mosques, caravansaries and hammams developed throughout the years.
Cool in summer and warm in winter you can wander around, enjoying the scent of aromatic spices, admire the most fascinating fabrics and materials or watching the craftsmen at work.

Sheikh Lotfollah Masjed

Built between 1602 and 1619 during the reign of Shah Abbas I, this mosque was dedicated to the ruler’s father-in-law, Sheikh Lotfollah. The dome with its delicate floral patterns on an ocher background is one of the most beautiful in the country. However, this masjed is unusual because it has neither a minaret nor a courtyard. This is probably due to the fact, that the mosque was never intended for public use, but rather served as the worship place for the women of the shah’s harem. The entrance portal shows some particularly fine muquarnas (stalactite-type tiles) of an intensely shining dark blue.
Inside, an angled corridor leads to the prayer room. The tiles in the dome display some extraordinary elegant mesh patterns, the walls are covered with floral tile patterns. The light entering through the dome windows gives the room a very special atmosphere. The mihrab is one of the finest in Iran and the acoustics are outstanding.

Masjed-e Imam

This elegant mosque with its blue-tiled mosaics, two turquoise minarets and a richly decorated dome, is probably the most famous mosque in the country and an absolute must-see. It was built as the mosque of the king (Masjed-e Shah) and completed in 1629, the last year of the reign of Shah Abbas the Great.
The magnificent entrance hall is flanked by two minarets and fits in perfectly with the overall concept of the Imam-square. Although the portal was built to face the square, the mosque itself is oriented towards Mecca. Therefore, a short, angled corridor was constructed to connect the square and the inner courtyard.
Inside the courtyard, you will find a pool for ritual washing and four imposing iwans on each side. The south iwan leads to the main prayer hall with its 36 m high dome. The richly decorated ceiling shows golden rose patterns on a deep blue background. Don’t miss to try out the excellent echoes by clapping your hands.

Chehel Soutun Palace

This beautifully proportioned palace was built as a pleasure pavilion and reception hall around 1614 under Shah Abbas the Great on the huge palace grounds behind Ali Qapu palace. The beautiful roof of the terrasse in front of the palace is supported by 20 elegant cedar pillars. These pillars are reflected in the mirror-smooth water of the large water basin in the garden, thus giving the impression of there being 40 pillars, hence the name “Chehel soutun” meaning “40 pillars”.
The palace is entered through an elegant iwan beautifully decorated with mirror mosaics. Inside you will find the Great Throne hall with interesting historical mural frescoes portraying the court life and great battles of the Safavid Shahs.
Please note, that the palace as we see it today was rebuilt after a fire in 1706. The garden of the palace is a beautiful example of the classic Persian garden with a 110 m long water basin under shady pines and cedar trees.

Hascht Behesht Palace

The Kakh-e Hasht Behesht, the palace of the Eight Paradises, was built in 1669 and was part of the vast royal grounds. By the time of its completion it was probably the most luxuriously decorated palace in Isfahan with its lush mural paintings, its mirror mosaics and the stalactite vault. As in most other garden palaces the transition between splendid interiors and lofty exterior spaces is fluid: on all four sides there are iwans and high terraces that come together in the middle of the building to form a large domed hall with a central water basin. Unfortunately, many of the lavish decorations have been destroyed in the course of the following centuries but currently the palace is being restored.
The palace is located in the nightingale park, the Bagh-e Bolbol, in the middle of a pine forest. The park is also a popular meeting place for retired locals, who love to sit on the benches around the palace and chatting peacefully.

Siose Pol Bridge

The Allahverdi Khan Bridge or Si-o-se Pol is the longest bridge over the Zaynanderud, which runs through Isfahan from west to east. The bridge connects the royal palaces on the north shore with the Armenian quarter "Djolfa" on the south bank. It was built by Allahverdi Khan, one of Shah Abbas the Great’s generals, between 1599 and 1602. Popularly, however, the bridge is usually called "Si-o-se Pol" due to its 33 arches. In addition to the 33 arches, the bridge has a second row of arcades, under which the locals love to sit and enjoy life. The roadway over the bridge is still laid out with paving stones today and flanked on the right and left by high walls. However, it has been closed to traffic for years. The bridge and the shore around are a popular meeting place where people like to watch the sunset and have a peaceful walk under the arches.

Kaju Bridge

This bridge, built around 1650, is about 50 years younger than its famous sister Si-o-se Pol and stands some 2 km upriver. With 23 arches and a length of about 130 m, it is a bit shorter, but architecturally very beautiful. This bridge has two rows of arcades and offers pedestrians the opportunity to cross the river on two levels. In the middle of the bridge you will find a pavilion decorated by fine tiles. But it is for its large stone steps that lead directly to the river at the foot of the arches that the bridge is most famous. There the locals will sit next to the water on hot days and refresh themselves.

Vank Cathedral

For the construction of his new magnificent capital, Shah Abbas settled 30'000 Armenians in Isfahan. They were skilled craftsmen and also controlled large parts of the silk trade. Since most of them came from the village "Djolfa" north of Tabriz, the Armenian district in Isfahan is also called "Djolfa". The Shah guaranteed them religious freedom and equal rights.
The present Christian quarter of Djolfa has a total of 13 parishes and as many churches. The most important of them is Vank Cathedral. Built between 1648 and 1655 this Armenian Church is the biggest Christian Church in Iran. The architecture of the cathedral follows in large part the Islamic style of the period with a large dome over the altar room. However, both the dome and the outer walls lack the lavish tile ornaments.
On the other hand, the interior of the cathedral is richly decorated with restored wall paintings full of life showing scenes out of the Bible and the martyrdom of St. Gregor.

Abassi Hotel

Once the Abbasi’s main building was a caravanserai. Now it has become one of the best-known hotels in the country. The beautiful inner courtyard is arranged around a huge garden with water basins and towering cedars and is well worth a visit. The arcades of the former caravanserai can still easily be recognized. In the north iwan you will find a traditional teahouse.

Menar Jonban

About 7 km west of Isfahan there is indeed a very interesting little mausoleum. Built in a small garden during the 14th century for the Sufi Sheikh Amu Abdollah, this mausoleum is of a very simple structure consisting of a covered rectangular hall. Its front entrance is flanked by two small minarets. These two minarets are very special: gentle shaking of either minaret results in the other minaret vibrating as well after a few seconds. Even today scientists are puzzling over this phenomenon. In the past visitors were allowed to climb up the towers and make them swing. But nowadays an experienced guardian will shake them at the full hour until sunset.