Isfahan, world famous city of blue mosques, city of bridges, paradisiacal gardens and palaces, imperial residence, commercial city and cultural center. Isfahan is a fertile oasis on the shores of Zayande-Rud in the central Iranian highlands at 1575 meters above sea level.
History
550 BC
Already in the Achaemenid period under Kourosh the Great Isfahan is said to have been a residence city named Gabai.
250 BC to 650 AD
Under the Parthians and Sasanids, the city developes into an important army base, at times it is also capital and mintage place.
This square is one of the largest and most beautiful ones in the world.
The 512m-long and 163m-wide Meidan was laid out in 1602 under the reign
of the Safavid ruler, Shah Abbas the Great, to emphasize the importance
of Esfahan as a capital of his powerful empire.
The entire square is
surrounded by arcades with shops and workshops. The ensemble of the
square includes the imposing Imam Mosque at the south end, the elegant
Lotfollah Mosque on the east side, the entrance to the bazaar at the
north end and the Ali Qapu Palace on the west side. Since the completion
of the buildings in 1616 little has changed on the square. Even the
goal posts used in frequent polo games are still in place. The only
modern additions are the fountains, which were added during the Pahlavi
era.
A few years ago, the square has even been made free from traffic
apart from the horse-drawn carriages for the visitors, thus allowing
the people to walk peacefully around the square.
This six-storey palace dominating one side of Imam Square was built to
impress. It served as a monumental gateway to the royal palaces and
gardens that were situated behind it. The veranda with its 18 beautiful
wooden pillars offers a unique view over the whole square and the roofs
of the Isfahan. You will be surprised to find also a water basin with a
small fountain on the veranda.
The palace’s 52 rooms are connected
by endless staircases and corridors. Unfortunately, little is left of
the numerous splendid mural paintings inside the palace. But the palace
is actually being carefully restored.
However, the real highlight of
the palace is the music room on the upper floor. The stucco ceiling is
stencilled with the shapes of vases and rose-water shakers to enhance
the acoustics.
The big covered bazaar is one of Iran’s busiest and most fascinating
bazaars. It can be entered through the big door at the main entrance
from the Meidan-e Imam. From here it stretches to the Friday Mosque.
Along the more than 1.5 km long main axis, a whole labyrinth of narrow
lanes with shops, mosques, caravansaries and hammams developed
throughout the years.
Cool in summer and warm in winter you can
wander around, enjoying the scent of aromatic spices, admire the most
fascinating fabrics and materials or watching the craftsmen at work.
Built between 1602 and 1619 during the reign of Shah Abbas I, this
mosque was dedicated to the ruler’s father-in-law, Sheikh Lotfollah. The
dome with its delicate floral patterns on an ocher background is one of
the most beautiful in the country. However, this masjed is unusual
because it has neither a minaret nor a courtyard. This is probably due
to the fact, that the mosque was never intended for public use, but
rather served as the worship place for the women of the shah’s harem.
The entrance portal shows some particularly fine muquarnas
(stalactite-type tiles) of an intensely shining dark blue.
Inside, an
angled corridor leads to the prayer room. The tiles in the dome display
some extraordinary elegant mesh patterns, the walls are covered with
floral tile patterns. The light entering through the dome windows gives
the room a very special atmosphere. The mihrab is one of the finest in
Iran and the acoustics are outstanding.
This elegant mosque with its blue-tiled mosaics, two turquoise minarets
and a richly decorated dome, is probably the most famous mosque in the
country and an absolute must-see. It was built as the mosque of the king
(Masjed-e Shah) and completed in 1629, the last year of the reign of
Shah Abbas the Great.
The magnificent entrance hall is flanked by two
minarets and fits in perfectly with the overall concept of the
Imam-square. Although the portal was built to face the square, the
mosque itself is oriented towards Mecca. Therefore, a short, angled
corridor was constructed to connect the square and the inner courtyard.
Inside
the courtyard, you will find a pool for ritual washing and four
imposing iwans on each side. The south iwan leads to the main prayer
hall with its 36 m high dome. The richly decorated ceiling shows golden
rose patterns on a deep blue background. Don’t miss to try out the
excellent echoes by clapping your hands.
This beautifully proportioned palace was built as a pleasure pavilion
and reception hall around 1614 under Shah Abbas the Great on the huge
palace grounds behind Ali Qapu palace. The beautiful roof of the
terrasse in front of the palace is supported by 20 elegant cedar
pillars. These pillars are reflected in the mirror-smooth water of the
large water basin in the garden, thus giving the impression of there
being 40 pillars, hence the name “Chehel soutun” meaning “40 pillars”.
The
palace is entered through an elegant iwan beautifully decorated with
mirror mosaics. Inside you will find the Great Throne hall with
interesting historical mural frescoes portraying the court life and
great battles of the Safavid Shahs.
Please note, that the palace as
we see it today was rebuilt after a fire in 1706. The garden of the
palace is a beautiful example of the classic Persian garden with a 110 m
long water basin under shady pines and cedar trees.
The Kakh-e Hasht Behesht, the palace of the Eight Paradises, was built
in 1669 and was part of the vast royal grounds. By the time of its
completion it was probably the most luxuriously decorated palace in
Isfahan with its lush mural paintings, its mirror mosaics and the
stalactite vault. As in most other garden palaces the transition between
splendid interiors and lofty exterior spaces is fluid: on all four
sides there are iwans and high terraces that come together in the middle
of the building to form a large domed hall with a central water basin.
Unfortunately, many of the lavish decorations have been destroyed in the
course of the following centuries but currently the palace is being
restored.
The palace is located in the nightingale park, the Bagh-e
Bolbol, in the middle of a pine forest. The park is also a popular
meeting place for retired locals, who love to sit on the benches around
the palace and chatting peacefully.
The Allahverdi Khan Bridge or Si-o-se Pol is the longest bridge over the Zaynanderud, which runs through Isfahan from west to east. The bridge connects the royal palaces on the north shore with the Armenian quarter "Djolfa" on the south bank. It was built by Allahverdi Khan, one of Shah Abbas the Great’s generals, between 1599 and 1602. Popularly, however, the bridge is usually called "Si-o-se Pol" due to its 33 arches. In addition to the 33 arches, the bridge has a second row of arcades, under which the locals love to sit and enjoy life. The roadway over the bridge is still laid out with paving stones today and flanked on the right and left by high walls. However, it has been closed to traffic for years. The bridge and the shore around are a popular meeting place where people like to watch the sunset and have a peaceful walk under the arches.
This bridge, built around 1650, is about 50 years younger than its famous sister Si-o-se Pol and stands some 2 km upriver. With 23 arches and a length of about 130 m, it is a bit shorter, but architecturally very beautiful. This bridge has two rows of arcades and offers pedestrians the opportunity to cross the river on two levels. In the middle of the bridge you will find a pavilion decorated by fine tiles. But it is for its large stone steps that lead directly to the river at the foot of the arches that the bridge is most famous. There the locals will sit next to the water on hot days and refresh themselves.
For the construction of his new magnificent capital, Shah Abbas settled
30'000 Armenians in Isfahan. They were skilled craftsmen and also
controlled large parts of the silk trade. Since most of them came from
the village "Djolfa" north of Tabriz, the Armenian district in Isfahan
is also called "Djolfa". The Shah guaranteed them religious freedom and
equal rights.
The present Christian quarter of Djolfa has a total of
13 parishes and as many churches. The most important of them is Vank
Cathedral. Built between 1648 and 1655 this Armenian Church is the
biggest Christian Church in Iran. The architecture of the cathedral
follows in large part the Islamic style of the period with a large dome
over the altar room. However, both the dome and the outer walls lack the
lavish tile ornaments.
On the other hand, the interior of the
cathedral is richly decorated with restored wall paintings full of life
showing scenes out of the Bible and the martyrdom of St. Gregor.
Once the Abbasi’s main building was a caravanserai. Now it has become one of the best-known hotels in the country. The beautiful inner courtyard is arranged around a huge garden with water basins and towering cedars and is well worth a visit. The arcades of the former caravanserai can still easily be recognized. In the north iwan you will find a traditional teahouse.
About 7 km west of Isfahan there is indeed a very interesting little mausoleum. Built in a small garden during the 14th century for the Sufi Sheikh Amu Abdollah, this mausoleum is of a very simple structure consisting of a covered rectangular hall. Its front entrance is flanked by two small minarets. These two minarets are very special: gentle shaking of either minaret results in the other minaret vibrating as well after a few seconds. Even today scientists are puzzling over this phenomenon. In the past visitors were allowed to climb up the towers and make them swing. But nowadays an experienced guardian will shake them at the full hour until sunset.
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